OmniSoak

A standard acrylic bath holds roughly 150–200 litres. An Omnitub deep soaking bath is built for a fuller, deeper soak and holds from about 260 litres (our smallest) to over 1,000 litres (our largest) when filled to the 525 mm soak line. With a bather in the tub the body displaces water, so the amount you actually run is lower — OmniSoak shows the exact figure for your size, depth and number of bathers.

To reach a 40°C bath by mixing hot water delivered at 60°C with cold mains at 10°C, you need roughly 60% hot and 40% cold. For a 288-litre soak that’s about 173 litres hot and 115 litres cold. OmniSoak calculates the precise hot-and-cold split for your tub, your target temperature and your incoming water temperatures.

Omnitub deep soaking tubs hold between roughly 260 and 1,000+ litres to the 525 mm soak line, depending on size. OmniSoak lists the capacity of every size — the empty volume and the volume in use with one or more bathers.

Yes. A submerged body displaces roughly its own weight in litres of water, so a heavier bather — or more bathers — means you run less water to reach the same level. OmniSoak lets you set each bather’s weight individually, in kg, lb or stone, and adds them up.

Every Omnitub deep soaking bath has a 600 mm internal depth with a 525 mm soak line, far deeper than a standard bath. OmniSoak lets you plan any fill depth from 350 mm up to the 600 mm brim and shows the water and heat needed for each.

OmniSoak costs every soak on live UK energy prices and your regional water rates — the water in, the energy to heat it, and (if you’re metered) the wastewater out — then shows it per soak, per month and per year. Choose your fuel — gas, electric, heat pump or oil — and your water company, or type the figures from your own bill. On an unmetered supply the water itself is free, so a soak only costs the energy to heat it.

OmniSoak shows the carbon of each soak from the live grid intensity for your region, the share of renewable electricity on the grid right now, and the greenest upcoming time to run it. A heat pump on clean electricity — and timing it well — cut the carbon sharply, and the standard 7-layer Omnigel holds heat far longer than acrylic or steel, so less goes on reheating. One Omnitub also lasts a lifetime where an acrylic bath is replaced every 10–15 years, so far less goes to landfill.

OmniSoak divides your fill volume by your tap’s flow rate — a UK bath tap is typically around 15–20 litres a minute. Set yours on the slider, or use the quick 6-second jug test in the tool. A low reading in an older home is usually just tired pipework; a new bathroom normally lifts it.

Yes. Switch to a commercial install and choose your sector — hotel or spa, care and assisted living, healthcare (HTM 04-01), leisure, or multi-occupancy (HMO and build-to-rent). OmniSoak sets the TMV-delivered temperature, 60°C storage, typical units per site and daily throughput, applies business energy tariffs, and totals the operating cost, carbon and water across the whole building — store hot at 60°C, distribute at ≥50°C and deliver ≤44°C at the bath via a WRAS thermostatic mixing valve to meet Legionella and scald duties.

It depends on your water volume, how cold you want it, how fast you want it there, and how the tub is insulated and sited — not on a single number. OmniSoak’s chiller panel works it out from your exact tub: the energy to pull the water down to your target temperature in the time you choose, plus the continuous load to hold it there. As a guide, our 1195 × 825 plunge (about 909 litres) chilled to 5°C overnight needs roughly 2.7–3.1 kW of cooling. Open the cold-plunge panel above and set your own figures.

By cooling power — kilowatts or BTU/hr. Listings that quote “suitable up to X litres” or a horsepower figure have quietly assumed a target temperature, an ambient and a pull-down time, so the same unit “handles” very different volumes once those change. OmniSoak gives you the cooling power as the primary spec, and also shows the water volume to chill so you can cross-check a chiller’s litre rating — just match it at a similar target temperature.

Enough to recover between uses and cope with a warm day — the industry norm is a 20–50% margin over the calculated load — but no more. A grossly oversized chiller short-cycles its compressor, which wastes energy and shortens its life, so bigger is not better. OmniSoak builds a sensible margin band into its recommendation rather than leaving you to guess a percentage.

Yes — significantly. Most of a chiller’s day-to-day work is holding temperature against heat creeping in, and that load is set by insulation and the open water surface (which alone can be up to ~40% of the heat gain). Our 13-layer insulated build cuts the hold load so a smaller, cheaper-to-run chiller keeps the water cold, and an insulated cover cuts it further. Toggle “Insulated” in the panel above to see the difference.

It depends on the cooling power your setup calls for, so OmniSoak classifies the result for you — from a domestic, plug-in single-phase unit, through a prosumer / light-commercial chiller on a dedicated circuit, up to a commercial, often three-phase system. Faster pull-down, an outdoor location and back-to-back commercial use all push the spec upward; a well-insulated indoor plunge with an overnight pull-down keeps it down.

Like the chiller, it’s set by power, not litres — the energy to warm the water from its fill temperature up to your soak temperature in the time you choose, plus the continuous load to hold it against a cooler room. OmniSoak’s heater panel works both out from your tub and gives a recommended heater output in kW (and BTU/hr). A smaller seated tub held warm overnight sits around a domestic 3 kW level; a large plunge held warm needs a heat-pump-class system.

A heat pump is far cheaper to run: with a coefficient of performance (COP) of around 4–5 it delivers roughly four to five units of heat for every unit of electricity, so it draws about a quarter of the power of a direct element to do the same job — it just heats a little more slowly. A direct electric element is the simplest and cheapest to buy, draws the full kilowatts and costs more to run. OmniSoak shows both the heat output needed and the much lower electrical draw of a heat pump.

Up to about 3 kW will run from a standard 13 amp socket; above that you’ll want a dedicated circuit, and larger or commercial loads of roughly 6–7 kW and up are usually wired three-phase. OmniSoak flags whether your result is a domestic, prosumer or commercial-class system so you can plan the supply early — always have the final connection made by a qualified electrician.

Yes. With a recirculating heater — a heat pump or an in-line element — paired with filtration, the tub holds its temperature continuously, ready whenever you are. Running cost comes down to heat loss, so a well-insulated build and a cover make a real difference; OmniSoak lets you set the insulation and see how much it cuts the hold load.

That depends on the volume, how far you’re raising the temperature and the heater’s power. OmniSoak lets you choose a fast, standard or overnight heat-up and shows the power each needs — a quick heat-up calls for a much larger heater, while an overnight warm-up lets a smaller, efficient heat pump do the work. Insulation shortens the time and lowers the cost either way.